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André Ostertag is among a handful of growers making a very strong case for Alsatian Pinot Noir. By and large spared the disastrous weather that has drastically reduced yields in Burgundy in recent vintages, the Alsatians seem to be realizing that their terroir is capable of greatness in more colors than just white. Blessed with a dry and sunny climate, they are producing Pinot Noirs that do not rival Burgundy’s but rather express the grape through a new lens with a typicity all their own. Ostertag’s Fronholz delivers deeply refreshing, pulpous cherry fruit, woodsy nuances that scream autumn, and velvety-smooth tannins that give the finest reds from anywhere a run for their money.