Solaia - by Piero Antinori 2017

The Marchesi Antinori 2017 Solaia offers a uniquely floral personality with wild rose and lilac that comes as a surprise, especially if you are expecting the more robust and opulent dark fruit associated with this vintage. To use a word that is popular now, the aromas are absolutely lifted. This is a bouquet-driven wine, showing great oak choices that are synergistic with the light and considerably thinner palate. Dried or pressed flowers cede to cherry, blueberry, some red meat char and a light touch of cinnamon. My impression is that the dry extract from the oak ultimately plays a bigger role in the overall flavor profile, preserving its red fruit core nevertheless. The wine is very accessible in terms of mouthfeel, showing a comparatively thinner and shorter approach. With more time in the glass, it offers some of the white soil dust that is a standard Solaia signature.

Made with 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Sangiovese and 8% Cabernet Franc, this has aromas of black currant, menthol, Mediterranean herbs and spice. The palate offers dried black cherry, star anise, tobacco and toasted almond framed in tightly wound, close-grained tannins that produce a firm finish. This is already generous, but give the tannins a few years to unwind. Drink 2023–2029.